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Fashion industry and media fraternity need to take each other seriously
 
Indiantelevision.com Team

(27 March 2006 9:30 pm)

 

MUMBAI: Lakme Fashion Week kicks off tomorrow in Mumbai and runs till 1 April 2006. As a curtain raiser the organisers of the event IMG organised a LFW Media this evening. The aim was to find ways in which the fashion industry and the media can work together better.

The speakers were Style.com’s editor Laird Borrelli, The Financial Times’ Robb Young, Hindustan Times fashion editor Vinod Nair, Zee Trendz, Zee Café creative head Lubna Adams, IMG New York director-PR Zach Eichman and DNA Me editor Sathya Saran. The forum was moderated by IMG Fashion - Asia Pacific MD Simon Lock.
Nair noted that the Indian fashion industry needs to take the media seriously if it wants to move beyond the realm of page three. “15 years ago designers were individual entities. There was no unity and a lack of seriousness. Things slowly changed with the Fashion Design Council Of India (FDCI). This brought oneness among designers. However when IGM split from FDCI once again bitching started. Designers should focus on their business and not talk behind each other’s back. In fashion media there is no such thing as off the record. Once you say something negative about someone it will appear.

“The fashion industry needs to take the media seriously. Often the fashion fraternity at important events is more interested in partying and then getting up late the next morning. Interview timings are not kept to and the media has to adhere to deadlines. We cannot meet them at events. Sometimes there is no look book for buyers. Bollywood of course drives newspapers more than fashion because it is older.”

At the same time journalists also have a responsibility. This point was made by Saran. She stressed the fact that fashion journalists must understand cultural theory. They should do their research and be able to comment and critique. “Journalists must have strong visualisation and communication skills. A historical perspective is important as is an open mind. One cannot go into a show with preconceived notions. If a designers collection is good in one year you cannot assume that it will be better the next year. The Lakme Fashion Week has 500 media personnel covering the event. In such a competitive environment you have to prove that you are better than everybody else if you want a designer to share his/her views with you. Journalists must also keep up with the latest trends and be aware of what goes on behind the creative process. They must be aware of what the designer is doing and the strategy he/she is following to reach different audience strata.”

She noted that it is the make believe aspect of fashion that makes it work. You cannot have an normal woman wearing clothes and hope that a magazine will be4 commercially successful. Models offer aspiration value she explained. A journalist should have the skil to explain to women why a particular style is good for her and what does not suit her and why. Adams pointed out that the fashion industry is growing along with the media outlets that cover it. There are over a million fashion sites. The audience has become an intrinsic onlooker. “Bollywood has had a huge influence on fashion right from the days of Nargis’ is and Rajesh Khanna’s hairstyles. Today fashion designers work on Bollywood films. Aki Narula worked on Bunty and Bablii. The television medium effectively propagates styles and trends. It shows that India is the only country whose people wear traditional clothe in a fashionable manner. A good example is the saris being worn in soaps like Kyunki Saas Bhi Kabhie Bahu Thi. Designers also get good recall from work done on television. An example would be Neeta Lula designing Jassi’s wedding outfit. Abroad Friends showcased cool and hip styled clothing. Sex And The City meanwhile showed off corporate wear and evening clothes.”

She noted that the aim of Zee Trendz and FTV is to make content audience friendly. The aim is to show how fashion clothes are relevant to people’s lives. In this way fashion is made non-elitist. “Zee Trendz offers viewers a better understanding of fashion terminology through shows like Simply Style and After Hours. We want content to be educative, relative and fun. Ditial television platforms like DTH, IPTV will create further demand for fashion and lifestyle based content. Zee Trendz is well positioned to offer he best of both.”

As far as the fashion industry is concerned she says that the Indian industry if it wants to export more of its product abroad needs to focus on ethnic sensibilities with a global perspective. “Indian fashion on TV must speak a global language. Designers need to adapt to an international style of dressing. This is what Ashish Soni did successfully at the New York Fashion Week.”

Borrelli pointed out that there are three kinds of fashion sites on the web. The first kind is vanity sites. These belong to either designers or corporations. They present brands in a personal way. The second are commercial sites. These deliver to the globe fashion forward garments. The third are editorial sites like style.com. “Editorial sites give artistes a chance to have an online gallery. When we started out we did not want to simply replicate Vogue online. Our small staff of 10-12 people creates the site’s content. Our aim is to always have a strong editorial point of view and not just be a look look site.

"The language we use is precise and engaging. Visual elements are important like video, which we are expanding upon. Site stickiness is important in terms of the amount of time a visitor spends on your site. We try to keep in mind fashion history in terms of images and support growing talent. So we cover international events like the Mumbai Fashion Week.”

Young dwelt on the importance of journalists going beyond the hype. “Journalists need to look beyond who is sitting in the front row at fashion events. Tahey also need to look at fashion on the street and not only what is on the catwalk. One must know the social, economic and political side to a garment. Otherwise it is merely fluff.

"Also a journalist to write a complete business story must speak to the CEO, distributor and customer in addition to the designer. The speed at which the media is moving is growing. The citizens media like blogs have an advantage over traditional media in this respect.”

 
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